JKC
Installation & Care Guide

Hindware-Style Metropole 40mm Flush Valve Piston Kit

Follow along and check off each step as you go — most customers finish in about 20 minutes.

~20 minutes
10 simple steps
No power tools
Model JKC-218
Step 0

Before You Start

Tap each item as you gather it — a couple of minutes of prep now saves a return later.

Tools You'll Need

  • Box spanner (to unscrew the piston kit body)
  • The piston kit's rod (included in the kit — used to unscrew the white cap)
  • Soft cloth
  • Bucket or small tray (to catch residual water)

What's In The Box

  • 1 × Piston Valve Kit
Verify before you start: Compare your old piston's overall length (112mm) and threaded collar diameter (46mm) against this kit before fitting — this kit is a compatible replacement part manufactured by JKC for Hindware-style Metropole 40mm concealed flush valves.
Installation

Step-by-Step Fitting

Work through each step in order — you can mark steps complete as you go, and come back to this page any time to pick up where you left off.

Hands full? Have the steps read out loud instead.
0 of 10 steps complete

Nice work — all steps complete!

Give the flush a final check for leaks, and keep your old piston kit aside for a few days just in case.

Stop the Water Flow
~1 min
Locate the isolation valve for this toilet and turn it fully off, then press the flush button once to relieve any pressure in the line.
Take care: Make sure the valve is turned fully closed before continuing — a partly-open valve can still trickle water while you're working.
Remove the Wall Flange Plate, Cover, and Push Button
~2 min
Gently unclip or unscrew the wall flange plate, then lift off the cover and the push button to expose the concealed body underneath.
Take care: Take care not to pry or force any part — the plastic retaining tabs can crack if levered at the wrong point.
Remove the Lock and Spring
~1 min
Lift out the lock nut and the spring from inside the concealed body and set them aside.
Unscrew the Old Kit Using the Box Spanner
~3 min
Fit the box spanner onto the piston kit body and turn to unscrew it, then lift the old kit straight out of the concealed body.
Take care: If it feels stuck, apply a little penetrating oil and wait a few minutes rather than forcing it — old fittings can be brittle.
Unscrew the White Cap Using the Piston Rod — Turn Clockwise
~2 min
Use the piston kit's rod to unscrew the white cap from the concealed body.
Take care: The white cap comes off by turning CLOCKWISE, not counter-clockwise — going the wrong way will jam it instead of loosening it.
Clean the Concealed Body
~2 min
With everything removed, clean out the concealed body thoroughly before fitting any new parts.
Fit the New White Cap
~2 min
Always install a new white cap along with the new kit, threading it into the concealed body by hand.
Take care: Never reuse the old white cap — fitting only a new piston kit without a new white cap is the single biggest cause of leaks returning after 3–4 months.
Install the New Piston Kit (Reverse of Removal)
~3 min
Insert the new piston kit into the concealed body and use the box spanner to tighten it, following the same steps as removal but in reverse.
Take care: Don't overtighten with the box spanner — this can crack the housing or pinch the O-rings, causing the exact leak you're trying to fix.
Reassemble Lock, Spring, Push Button, Cover and Wall Flange Plate
~2 min
Refit the spring and lock, then the push button, cover, and finally the wall flange plate, making sure each part seats fully into place.
Turn On Water Supply and Test the Flush
~2 min
Turn the isolation valve back on, let the line pressurize fully, then test the flush 2–3 times and check around the kit and white cap for any leaks.
Points To Take Care Of

Do's & Don'ts

The most common fitting mistakes — and how to avoid them.

Do

  • Always replace the white cap along with the new piston kit — reusing the old cap is the top cause of leaks 3–4 months later
  • Verify overall length (112mm) and threaded collar diameter (46mm) against your old part before fitting
  • Turn off the isolation valve fully before starting
  • Clean the concealed body thoroughly before fitting the new kit
  • Keep the old piston kit until you've confirmed the new one is leak-free
  • Test the flush a few times before considering the job done

Don't

  • Don't reuse the old white cap — this is the most common cause of leakage returning 3–4 months after installation
  • Don't unscrew the white cap the wrong way — it comes off by turning clockwise, not counter-clockwise
  • Don't force a stuck old kit — apply penetrating oil and wait rather than forcing it
  • Don't skip verifying dimensions — mismatched parts are the top cause of returns
  • Don't turn the water back on before everything is fully reassembled
Quick Reference

Troubleshooting

If something doesn't feel right after fitting, check here first.

SymptomLikely CauseWhat To Do
Leakage returns after 3–4 monthsOld white cap was reused instead of replacedAlways replace the white cap together with the piston kit — order a new one if needed
Toilet still runs/leaks after fittingKit or white cap not fully seatedTurn off water, recheck both the kit and the white cap are properly tightened
Weak or partial flushPiston not seated correctly / wrong orientationRemove and reinsert following the same orientation as the old part
New kit doesn't seem to fitDimension mismatchCompare against the 112mm overall length / 46mm collar diameter; message WhatsApp support before forcing it
Push button feels stiff or doesn't spring backSpring not seated / debris in mechanismRecheck spring placement and clean the concealed body before refitting
JKC

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